Rolex Submariner Reference Guide

The Submariner is the dive watch every other dive watch is measured against. Since the late 1980s it has been made in two main versions, with and without a date, and the line has moved from aluminium to ceramic bezels and from 40mm to 41mm. The differences between references are small on paper but obvious on the wrist. This guide sorts them out.

Reference table

All of these are rated to 300m. In Rolex numbering, “LN” is a black bezel (lunette noire), “LV” green (lunette verte) and “LB” blue (lunette bleue).

Generation by generation

Origins

Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1953 and has refined it continuously since. Vintage references are a deep subject of their own; the modern story starts with the sapphire-crystal generation.

16610 and 14060: the classic aluminium era

The 16610 Submariner Date became one of the longest-running Rolex references, made from 1988 to 2010. It has a 40mm case with slim lugs, an aluminium bezel insert that fades gently with age, and the calibre 3135. Its no-date sibling, the 14060, began with the calibre 3000; the later 14060M moved to the calibre 3130. Both have the light, slender proportions many people still consider the best-wearing Submariners ever made.

For the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, Rolex released the 16610LV with a green aluminium bezel and a black dial, nicknamed the “Kermit”. Early examples, with small differences in bezel printing, are especially collected.

116610LN and 114060: ceramic arrives

In 2010 the Submariner Date became the 116610LN: same 40mm diameter, but with a Cerachrom ceramic bezel, broader lugs and crown guards (often called the “Maxi case”), larger hands and markers, and a new bracelet with the Glidelock extension, which lets you adjust the length in small steps without tools. The green 116610LV, nicknamed the “Hulk”, paired a green sunburst dial with a green ceramic bezel. The no-date 114060 followed in 2012 with the same ceramic bezel and the calibre 3130.

124060 and 126610LN: the 41mm generation

In 2020 Rolex moved the Submariner to 41mm. The case is wider but the lugs are slimmer, so it looks more balanced than the Maxi case and closer to the older references. The no-date 124060 has the calibre 3230 and the Date 126610LN the calibre 3235, both with about 70 hours of power reserve. The 126610LV pairs a black dial with a green ceramic bezel, a modern take on the anniversary “Kermit”.

Gold and two-tone Submariners

The Submariner Date has long been offered in yellow Rolesor (steel and yellow gold), yellow gold and white gold. The current generation includes the two-tone 126613LB, the yellow gold 126618LB and 126618LN, and the white gold 126619LB with a blue dial and bezel. The previous 116613LB, 116618LB and 116619LB are similar in spirit with the 40mm case.

How to choose

Date or no-date? The no-date dial is symmetrical and closest to the original tool watch. The Date adds the Cyclops magnifier and practicality. Neither is better; it’s a question of what you like looking at.

Aluminium or ceramic? Aluminium bezels fade and scratch, which some people love and some don’t. Ceramic stays looking new. If you want a watch that ages with you, look at the 16610 or 14060M. If you want the most durable, go ceramic.

40mm or 41mm? The 41mm references wear very similarly to the 40mm ceramic watches but with a more refined profile. If you have a smaller wrist, the slim-lug aluminium references often sit best.

Steel or gold? Steel is the classic. Two-tone and gold Submariners are heavier and bolder, and the blue-dial versions are some of the most distinctive Rolex sports watches.

Living with one

The Submariner is probably the easiest luxury watch to own. It is rated to 300m, the screw-down Triplock crown keeps water out, and the case and bracelet are built to take daily wear. Swim with it, travel with it, wear it with a suit. The only habits worth forming are screwing the crown down fully after setting the time and rinsing the watch in fresh water after the ocean or a pool.

The Glidelock extension on the ceramic and 41mm models is genuinely useful: wrists swell in heat and shrink in the cold, and you can adjust the fit by a few millimetres in seconds. On the older 16610 and 14060M, the bracelet is lighter and the clasp simpler, which gives those watches a slightly more vintage feel.

Modern Rolex movements are designed for long service intervals. If the watch keeps good time, holds its power reserve and passes a water-resistance test, there is no reason to service it early. When it is time, ask for minimal polishing so the case keeps its sharp lines.

Buying checklist

• Check the bezel action. The unidirectional bezel should click firmly through 120 positions with no play. A ceramic insert should be free of chips; an aluminium insert should be original, not an aftermarket replacement.
• Ask about water resistance. A Submariner should be pressure tested after any service or before sale. Ask when it was last tested.
• Confirm the bracelet matches the generation. Glidelock clasps belong on the ceramic and 41mm models; older references use a different dive clasp.
• Match the serial and reference. The numbers engraved between the lugs (and on the rehaut on modern pieces) should match the warranty card and the reference you are being sold.
• Check the papers. A modern Rolex warranty card should carry the same serial, reference and an authorised dealer name. Papers add confidence and value, but they are not proof on their own.
• Look at the dial under a loupe. Printing should be crisp, applied markers sharply finished, and the lume even. Ask whether the dial, hands and bezel insert are original to the watch.
• Ask about service history. A recent Rolex or qualified independent service is a plus. Ask whether any parts were replaced, and whether the originals came back with it.
• Judge the case, not just the photos. Sharp chamfers and crisp lug edges point to light or no polishing. Heavy polishing softens the lines and lowers collector value.
• Check the bracelet. Stretch, missing links and clasp wear all matter. Ask how many links are included.

Weighing a deeper diver? Read our Sea-Dweller vs Submariner guide and how to spot a fake Rolex.

FAQ

What is the difference between the 124060 and 126610LN?

The 124060 has no date and the calibre 3230; the 126610LN has a date with Cyclops and the calibre 3235. Case, bezel, bracelet and water resistance are the same.

Which Submariner is the “Hulk”?

The 116610LV, with a green dial and green ceramic bezel, made from 2010 to 2020.

Which Submariner is the “Kermit”?

Originally the 16610LV, with a green aluminium bezel and black dial. The current 126610LV is sometimes called the same, or “Starbucks”.

Is the Submariner 40mm or 41mm?

References before 2020 are 40mm. The current generation is 41mm.

Can you find a specific Submariner for me?

Yes. Tell us the reference, dial and year range you want and we’ll source it.