Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference Guide

The Nautilus is the watch that made steel a luxury material. Designed by Gérald Genta and launched in 1976, it took the porthole shape of a ship’s window and turned it into one of the most desired watches in the world. Today the family runs from time-only models to complicated chronographs and a perpetual calendar. This guide covers the key references, how they differ, and what to look for.

Reference table

In Patek references, “1” after the slash means a bracelet; the letter gives the metal: A steel, G white gold, R rose gold, P platinum.

Generation by generation

3700/1A: the Jumbo

The 1976 original was large for its day, with an integrated steel bracelet, the distinctive “ears” on either side of the case, and an ultra-thin automatic movement, the calibre 28-255 C. Patek priced it above many gold watches, which was a bold bet at the time. Today the 3700 is a serious collector’s piece.

3800: the smaller Nautilus

In 1981 Patek added the 37.5mm 3800, with a central seconds hand and a slightly more compact feel. It remained in production for about 25 years and is an accessible way into a vintage Nautilus for people who like a smaller watch.

5711/1A: the modern icon

For the Nautilus’s 30th anniversary in 2006, Patek introduced the 5711/1A: 40mm, a horizontally embossed blue dial, a sapphire display back and a refined bracelet. It became the most in-demand steel watch of its generation. Early examples use the calibre 324 S C; from 2019 the 26-330 S C took over, with a hacking seconds feature. Patek ended the 5711/1A in 2021, closing with an olive green dial (5711/1A-014) and a small edition with a Tiffany-blue dial made for Tiffany & Co.

Complications: 5712, 5726, 5980, 5990, 5740

The 5712/1A adds an asymmetric dial with power reserve, moon phase and pointer date, driven by the thin micro-rotor calibre 240 PS IRM C LU. The 5980/1A introduced Patek’s in-house flyback chronograph to the Nautilus, with a single 60-minute and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. The 5726 is an annual calendar with moon phase and a 24-hour indicator, needing correction only once a year. The 5990/1A combines the flyback chronograph with Patek’s Travel Time second time zone. The 5740/1G is a perpetual calendar in white gold, very thin for the complication.

5811/1G: the successor

In 2022 Patek introduced the 5811/1G, a 41mm time-and-date Nautilus in white gold with a blue gradient dial and a new fold-over clasp. It continues the design of the 5711 in precious metal, with the calibre 26-330 S C, and is the current reference for anyone who wants the core Nautilus design.

Ladies’ Nautilus

Patek also makes smaller Nautilus models for women, including automatic and quartz versions, many with gem-set bezels. Ask us for current references and sizes.

How to choose

For the classic look, the 5711/1A remains the reference most people mean when they say “Nautilus”. The blue dial is the icon; white and green dials are also prized. The 5811/1G offers the same design, new and in white gold.

For something more interesting to look at, the 5712/1A is one of the most elegant complicated sports watches made, and wears nearly as thin as the 5711.

For a chronograph, the 5980/1A or the 5990/1A. The Travel Time adds a genuinely useful second time zone for frequent flyers.

For collectors, the 3700/1A is the original, and the 3800 is the understated vintage option.

Many Nautilus references also exist in rose gold, white gold or two-tone; these often carry the same calibre with a different feel and weight.

Living with one

For a watch with such a formidable reputation, the Nautilus is surprisingly easy to wear. The time-and-date models are very thin, the integrated bracelet drapes closely around the wrist, and the case sits low. Many owners say it disappears on the wrist in a way few sports watches do. The steel references are rated to 120m and the screw-down crown makes them comfortable around water, though complicated models have different ratings and it is always worth checking yours.

The bracelet deserves care. It is made of many small, finely finished links, and its fold-over clasp is designed to sit flush. Avoid knocking it against hard surfaces, and keep any removed links with the watch, because original links are costly and sometimes slow to source. The brushed and polished surfaces of the case and bezel show wear more readily than a Rolex sports watch, so many collectors choose to leave light marks rather than polish them away.

When it comes time to service, Patek Philippe’s service centres can be asked to keep refinishing to a minimum. Keep your service papers with the original set; they add to the watch’s history and to its value when you sell or trade.

Finally, think about how you will wear it. A steel 5711 or a 5712 is an everyday watch; a white gold 5811 or a perpetual calendar 5740 is heavier and more of an occasion piece. Both can be worn daily, but it is worth trying the weight before deciding.

Buying checklist

• Match the case and movement numbers. Patek case and movement numbers should match the Certificate of Origin or Patek’s Extract from the Archives.
• Check the papers and box. A complete set adds value. Missing papers can be supplemented with an Extract from the Archives from Patek Philippe.
• Inspect the bracelet closely. The integrated bracelet is complex. Check for stretch and that all links are present; replacement links are costly.
• Look at the case finishing. The Nautilus alternates brushed and polished surfaces. Poor polishing blurs those lines and lowers value.
• Examine the dial under a loupe. The embossed horizontal pattern should be even and sharp, printing crisp and lume consistent.
• Confirm the movement through the caseback. Most modern references have a sapphire caseback. The calibre should match the reference.
• Ask about service. Ask whether the watch has been serviced by Patek Philippe and whether any parts were replaced.

FAQ

Why was the 5711 discontinued?

Patek Philippe ended the steel 5711/1A in 2021. The 5811/1G in white gold was introduced in 2022 as the successor.

What is the difference between the 5711 and 5811?

The 5811/1G is 41mm in white gold, with a gradient blue dial and a new clasp. The 5711/1A is 40mm in steel. Both use the calibre 26-330 S C (later 5711s).

Which Nautilus is the Jumbo?

The original 3700/1A from 1976, nicknamed for its size at the time.

Is the Nautilus a good everyday watch?

Yes. It is water resistant for normal swimming, though not a dive watch, and the bracelet is comfortable. Check the rating for your specific reference.

Can you source a specific reference?

Yes. We work with a network of dealers to find specific references and dials.